A Conscious Feast by Nicole Aloni

Mediterranean Lamb Roast Recipe

photo:Manny Rodriguez

I don’t eat much red meat these days (I think I’m slowly easing back into my vegetarian ways.) But when I do, it’s the complex flavors of lamb that tempt me. And we’re so fortunate here in the Seattle area—in oh so many ways—but especially when it comes to the availability of the natural, organic, grass fed, and/or pastured meat and poultry I prefer.

These more natural meats are from boutique-sized operations for the most part, so they’re always a little more expensive than industrial meat.  I realize that makes it impractical for lots of folks.  I just find that the meat has a better flavor and texture, and I feel better about myself.  So, when I post meat-centric recipes, I’ll always try to offer up resources for those who would like to purchase alternatives to mass market meat. Washington state’s own Thundering Hooves offers up wonderful pasture finished lamb, beef and pork. Niman Ranch is a top quality national brand which is carried in Whole Foods, many local markets, and online, or try local butcher shops like Fero’s Meat Market in Seattle’s Pike Place.

Once you’ve selected the meat you prefer, this recipe is a snap.  Preparation of this meltingly tender roast relies more on a flamboyant approach than on complicated cooking techniques. You should serve your guests the same variety of red wine that you use in the marinade. The roast is equally successful served cold, sliced on a buffet. The Parsley and Walnut Salad is a lovely accompaniment to this dish.

EASE OF PREPARATION: Easy & creative

BEVERAGE TO ACCOMPANY: An Oregon Pinot Noir

Makes 8 servings

LAMB ROAST

• 3 cups hearty red wine
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 leg of lamb, boned and butterflied by the butcher (about 4 pounds boned)
• 1 (3-ounce) can anchovies in olive oil
• 10 to 12 cloves garlic
• 2 bunches fresh rosemary branches
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground coarse black pepper
• 1/2 cup coarse corn meal (polenta)

AU JUS

• 1/2 cup beef stock
• 1/4 cup pitted and diced kalamata or niçoise olives

TO PREPARE THE LAMB

1. Combine the wine and olive oil in a large roasting pan.
2. Trim off all excess fat and any tendons from the lamb. Submerge the lamb in the wine mixture and marinate at room temperature for 1 hour or 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator. Remove the lamb from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and pat lamb dry for easier handling. Refrigerate the marinade.
3. Drain the oil from the anchovies. Slice any large garlic cloves and pull the rosemary branches into individual stems. Spread out the boned leg of lamb on the work surface. Salt and pepper the lamb thoroughly on both sides.
4. Insert all of the garlic, anchovy fillets, and rosemary stems into every nook and cranny left by the butcher’s boning process. If there are not enough cavities, use a paring knife to make small slits. Try to balance the dispersion of these three intense flavors throughout the lamb.
5. Now, reassemble the lamb into some semblance of the roast you picked up from the butcher, using kitchen twine. Don’t worry about being too neat, there will be twigs and bits sticking out. But, you want to tuck in any small or thin pieces of meat, which might cook too quickly. Note: The lamb can be prepared to this point up to 24 hours in advance if it is wrapped well in plastic wrap and refrigerated. It must be brought back to room temperature before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 450° F.

6. Mix the marinade well and pour 1/2 cup over the roast and massage it in with your hands. Sprinkle on a little more salt and pepper, then the cornmeal; pat it into place.
7. Place the lamb on a rack in a shallow roasting pan and roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350° F and roast for about 1 1/2 hours, until an instant-read thermometer registers an internal temperature of 140° F for rare or 150° F for medium. Baste with the reserved marinade about every 20 minutes.
8. Remove the lamb from the roasting pan to a cutting board. Let stand at least 10 minutes before slicing. (It can rest, tented with foil, for up to 30 minutes.)

TO PREPARE THE AU JUS

• Put the roasting pan on the stovetop, across 2 burners on medium-high heat. Pour any unused marinade into the hot roasting pan and deglaze the juices and solid particles on the bottom. If you need additional liquid, use beef stock. Add the chopped olives. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve the sauce in the warm oven to pour on the lamb when it is served.

TO SERVE

• Completely remove the kitchen twine. Slice the lamb, against the grain, into about 1/2-inch-thick slices. The anchovies will have disappeared into the meat, but you will see pretty cross sections of the garlic and rosemary. Serve about 1 tablespoon of the aromatic sauce on each slice.