A Conscious Feast by Nicole Aloni

Zaccagnini vineyard, photo S. Kaufman

Sometimes I am lucky enough to be able to combine work and play. Recently I scored by turning my visit to the the remarkable Zaccagnini winery in Italy into an assignment. I may be going back this summer for another round of Italian food and wine adventures that I”ll craft into articles for publication. Cross your grissini for me.

Nicole at Zaccagnini

At any rate, here is a version of this story tailored just for you, my readers.  And yes, you can visit Zaccagnini when you are in Italy.

Zaccagnini; Il vino, arte dell’uomo

Zaccagnini, is located in the sere, mountainous region of Abruzzo, about 2-1/2 hours east of Rome.  While Abruzzo doesn’t attract Hollywood celebrities fleeing the spotlight or even many average tourists⎯it has one claim to fame:  Marcello Zaccagnini and his winemaker, Concezio Marulli, who are eliciting nectar from its rough hills.

This  is not the common saga of a wealthy family deciding to invest in the elite world of wine.  Marcello grew up as a farmer working in the vineyards owned by his father, growing grapes to sell to local winemakers.  In the 1970’s, that market collapsed and the family was struggling to get by.

Marcello Zaccagnini amongst his art collection, photo S. Kaufman

In 1977, barely into his twenties, Marcello determined that if no one would buy their grapes, he would work with his father to make the wine themselves.  Presto!  A winery was born. Well, not quite⎯it was still a grinding struggle.  For nearly ten years Marcello worked early mornings in the fields, then went to his day job as a welder to pay the bills, then returned to his vines at night.

Concezio (Marcello’s cousin) worked in the vineyard alongside the Zaccagninis from the age of ten.  Ultimately, Marcello sent him to enology school where Consezio learned the skills which (in combination with his natural enthusiasm for the grapes) transformed him into the label’s gifted winemaker.  Today, Concezio lives with his family in a beautiful cottage literally nestled into the side of the winery.

Winemaker Consezio Marulli, photo S.Kaufman

By 1984, Marcello and his parents⎯with the help of Concezio and a handful of employees⎯had slowly expanded to producing about 40,000 bottles a year.  From the beginning, Marcello said that he didn’t want to settle for just making the table wine that had been typical of the area.  He believed that their land and the surrounding terroir could produce great wines if handled properly and Concezio passionately agreed.  Luckily for their future, so did Gino Razzi, an American wine importer and Abruzzo native who introduced their wines to America.

Though Marcello sees himself as a simple farmer and not a businessman, his passion for great wine (along with his instincts for choosing and rewarding loyal employees) have helped him build a very successful, internationally-recognized label.  Today, they ship over a million bottles of wine all over the world, including Japan, Russia, England, Germany⎯and, of course, America.  This is literally and figuratively a family business inspired by their shared infatuation with Abruzzo and her grapes.

Consezio in the vineyard, photo S. Kaufman

Marcello says of Concezio, “His life is the wine, the vines and the fields.  That’s all there is for him.”  This could as easily have been said of Marcello.

The winery reflects Marcello’s enthusiasm for the arts, as well.  Several remarkable sculptures are placed among the vines, and the winery and offices are filled with his collection of modern art.  His motto:  Il vino, arte dell’uomo (wine is the art of man) is painted on the walls.

Zaccagnini Art Instllation, photo S. Kaufman

“Our business philosophy is to have the best product for the best price at every level.  Whether it’s modestly priced or a special purchase, we want to give people the best value.”

The Montepulciano Reserva is one of their best known exports in its easy to recognize bottle with a grapevine twig wrap.

Montepulciano Reserva, photo S.Kaufman

Reserva has a medium deep red color and bright, vibrant character with a great range of aroma and flavors.  There’s a slight rustic note that matches perfectly with grilled meats, spicy food and hearty pasta dishes.  Think of it as a little like Pinot Noir, but with more weight.