Kurt’s Cookhouse, Vashon Island Farm Supper
October 11th, 2009 | Published in Green Living, Main Course Recipes, Pork Recipes | 8 Comments
Last Sunday I was lucky enough to be included in one of the intimate farmhouse dinners at Kurtwood Farms on Vashon. Ex-Seattle chef Kurt Timmermeister (and friends) produce regular Sunday night dinners on his 13-acre dairy farm that are the acme of local eating. Every bite of food — with the exception of 4 or 5 staples like flour, salt and pepper—comes from his land.
photo: Nicole
Our experience started with a glass of wine (another non farm-produced item) and a stroll through the kitchen garden. I know there are other wonderful opportunities to include the feeling of the land in the meal, notably the Herb Farm, but not many. And on a sunny afternoon, walking around one of Puget Sound’s most beautiful little islands, this felt as though I’d been transported to Tuscany or Provence or Cappodecia (you must visit Turkey!).
Kurt's garden
In the kitchen, Chef Riley (also from noted Spring Hill Restaurant) was working away on our first course of pizzas from the outdoor, wood-fired oven.
My favorite was topped with pancetta made on the farm from one of Kurt’s small posse of pigs (in addition to his herd of milk cows). Kurt mentioned the name of the source-pig for this pancetta. Though I didn’t catch it, a number of the other diners seemed to remember him/her fondly from previous visits.
house made pancetta
The pizzas appeared smoking hot on the kitchen counter throughout our leisurely stroll around the property. Some of us took the opportunity to pick golden raspberries, some bottle-fed calves and we all soaked up this vicarious opportunity to indulge in a rural idyll.
And then, pancetta pizza from the stone oven
Dinner was a staggering 11, or 12, or 13? courses of fresh, simple, clean food. It was all remarkable, but my favorite was the first course: a roasted turnip soup with chunks of Kurt’s great bacon. The bitter creaminess of the soup was perfectly balanced with the crunchy salt of the bacon. Umami–you bet. If you’ve never felt the love, this was your chance to fall for the humble turnip.
Roasted Turnip Soup with Bacon
Kurt served us beautful produce in simple sauces and a main course of pork roast braised in creamy juices topped with farm pears that was so fresh and elegant … well. Let’s just say there was more sighing at the table at that point than conversation.
Kurt serving us
I don’t have Kurt’s recipe (as a matter of fact, I think they operate “recipe-free). But, for those of you who may have gotten a braised pork-Jones going, here’s one of my favorite braised pork recipes.
Braised Pork with Figs and Onions Recipe
EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap
BEVERAGE TO ACCOMPANY: Dr. H. Thanisch Classic Riesling
Makes 6 servings
- 6 (1-inch thick) pork loin chops cut from a whole loin (about 6 ounces each)
- All-purpose flour, for dusting
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
- 1 medium sweet onion (such as Vidalia or Walla Walla Sweet), sliced in 1/2-inch rings
- 1 cup off-dry Riesling (such as Blue River Riesling)
- 1 cup homemade chicken stock
- 1 tablespoon dried thyme
- 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 cup chopped figs (about 6 ounces)
- 6 ounces peeled baby carrots
Preheat the oven to 350° F.
- Season the pork with salt and pepper and dust with flour. In a large Dutch oven or ovenproof 12-inch skillet, heat the butter and the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the pork well on both sides, turning once, about 5 minutes per side.
- Transfer the pork to a plate and drain all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until softened, about 5 minutes.
- Add the wine and stock. Increase the heat to high and boil to reduce by half, about 12 minutes.
- Add the thyme, orange juice, bay leaf, figs, and carrots and stir to mix. Return the pork to the pan and braise (uncovered) in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes or until the meat is tender (internal temperature of about 145° F).
Dessert was a delicate rose geranium ice cream followed by port and one of the perfect pears that had also graced the pork. Simple, soul satisfying, the very definition of comfort food from start to finish.
And after dessert....
October 12th, 2009at 7:37 am(#)
Loved the photos. What a great dinner. I’m curious about how these dinners started.
October 12th, 2009at 7:38 am(#)
Great photos!
October 12th, 2009at 7:54 am(#)
Sounds like a delightful evening. I’ve always wanted to go there and now I can live (eat) vicariously through you. Kudos for your photos.
October 12th, 2009at 8:10 am(#)
Poppy, that’s only fair. I’ve had so much fun with your pictures and stories.
October 12th, 2009at 8:10 am(#)
We’ll have to ask Kurt
October 13th, 2009at 12:41 pm(#)
Nicole, I came so close to attending one of these farmhouse dinners a year ago or so ago – alas it didn’t work out. It’s on my list of food to-dos. And isn’t Vashon an amazing escape?
October 13th, 2009at 12:45 pm(#)
You know, we’ll have to ask Kurt. I’m gonna guess it was an inevitable result of his skills and passions.
October 13th, 2009at 12:46 pm(#)
Quite amazing… you feel so far away from the city!