Raising Tomatoes & a French Tomato Tarte
August 21st, 2009 | Published in Appetizer Recipes, Main Course Recipes, Vegetable Recipes | 11 Comments
French Tomato Tarte, photo Manny Rodriguez
In the heated debate about the way our food is grown and brought to market, the homegrown tomato has become the poster child for all that is right about natural, local or homegrown foods. They’re the epitome of something that is undeniably better when grown by a small farmer (or your backyard). Taste a slice of an organic Japanese Truffle next to one of the flavorless lumps industrial agriculture palms off on us and even the most diehard supermarket-maven will have to acknowledge that there may be something to this local, organic hullabaloo.
Last year I’d finally gotten a garden space built at my new home. So, as a food enthusiast, I researched and planted the perfect selection of tomatoes for my “conditions”. I willingly invested hours of pinching back, staking, just-right-watering and even whispered words of encouragement and endearment to the furry little stalks. But, it turns out that good intentions aren’t enough in the rough and tumble milieu of the vegetable patch. All that love doesn’t necessarily yield the fabled (and in my case, lusted after) “homegrown tomato”. It was a biting reminder of the tough row that farmers have historically had to hoe in the pursuit of beautiful, real food.
What I harvested, after weeks of my obsessive nurturing, was a handful of the same, flavorless, little nubs I could have picked up at the nearest Cash-n-Grab for $2/pound. Oh boy, was I disappointed. Long time Seattle-ites assured me that Seattle was really a great place to grow tomatoes and that last summer was ‘freakishly bad’. Next summer was bound to be better. “Right”, I said.
This spring I laughed bitterly as I passed the sea of tomato starters at Swanson’s nursery. Oh no, no more of that heartbreak for me. Instead, I planted sugar snap peas, pansies, parsley (2 kinds), Thai basil, jalapeno peppers, peppermint and zucchini. They’ve all done very nicely, thank you.
But wouldn’t you know it? The old-timers were right. This year my garden is tomato-free, while every other P-patch and apartment balcony sports plants literally creaking with tender, sweet fruit. My only consolation (besides the fact that there will be summer again, next year) is that farmers like Billy Allstot, from Billy’s Organic Produce in northeastern Washington, are providing our farmers markets and some of the great local restaurants, like Serafina and Tilth, with tomatoes that could make you weep.
So, I buy them to cook with and I order them in my favorite restaurants. Next year I’m determined to give it another try. I’ve got grit and I’ve got hope. Stay tuned. I plan to have such a bounteous crop that I’ll be posting recipes for all of the ways to put them by for the winter: tomato jam, tomato sauce, tomato salsa, ketchup (maybe you have some suggestions).
French Tomato Tarte Recipe
When tomatoes are this down-right, decadently delicious—especially one of Billy’s organic beauties—I’m looking for ways to include them in every kind of dish. One of my favorite recipes from Provence is the classic Tarte Pissaladiere, which typically focuses on caramelized onions. I thought it couldn’t hurt to slip a couple of slices of a Summer Gem or Japanese Truffle on top. And boy, was I right.
Served with a green salad and red wine, the resulting French Tomato Tarte is a sophisticated main course for lunch or a light supper that really shows off your garden or your favorite farmer.
Made in bite-sized discs, either warm from the oven or room temperature, it is a boldly flavored hors d’oeuvre bite. For either purpose, it looks lovely garnished with a sprig of fresh herb.
Makes 20 to 24 hors d’oeuvres or 1 large tarte (8 to 10 servings)
BEVERAGE TO ACCOMPANY: An Oregon Pinot Noir
CRUST
- 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, chopped
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 to 4 tablespoons cold water
FILLING
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 3/4 pound sweet onion (such as a Walla Walla Sweet or Vidalia) or yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary
- 1 tablespoon capers, drained
- 10 thin slices of tomato (about 2 medium)
- 15 pitted niçoise (or kalamata) olives
- 1 can anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained (optional)
GARNISH
- Fresh thyme or rosemary sprigs
TO MAKE THE CRUST
- Combine all of the ingredients, except water, in food processor. Using pulse control, briefly process the mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Continuing to pulse, add enough water so that the dough forms moist clumps.
- Gather the dough into a ball. Flatten the dough into a disc, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.
TO MAKE THE FILLING
- Heat the olive oil in a heavy 10 to 14-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme. Sauté slowly until the onions are completely soft and there is no liquid in the pan (about 15 minutes). Stir in the capers and remove the bay leaf. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. (The filling can be prepared and refrigerated up to 2 days in advance.)
- Lightly oil a baking sheet. If chilled overnight, allow the crust and filling to warm slightly at room temperature.
- Roll out the dough on a floured surface to create a 10 to 12-inch circle or square. Transfer the dough to the oiled baking sheet and pinch up the edge of the pastry all around to form a lip on the crust.
- Spread the onion mixture evenly across the dough. Arrange the tomato slices and olives in a decorative pattern across the onions. (If you choose to use the anchovies, lay them across the tomatoes.) Lightly brush the tomatoes with olive oil and dust with salt and black pepper.
- Bake the tarte until crisp and the edges are golden, about 25 minutes. Allow it to cool for a few minutes before slicing to serve. (A serrated knife or pizza cutter works best.) Garnish with fresh thyme or rosemary sprigs.
Preheat the oven to 425° F.
August 21st, 2009at 8:38 pm(#)
Like you, I also nearly gave up on tomatoes this year. If it weren’t for the fact that we had a brand new yard in a new location, we probably wouldn’t have grown them.
But if you’re itching to make a plethora of tomato recipes, don’t forget that Billy’s sells #2 tomatoes pretty cheaply. They might take a little bit more work to cut away the blemishes, but they will be just as good.
August 22nd, 2009at 10:07 am(#)
Hey, let’s get not just “some” but “LOTS” of those #2 tomatoes from Bill and make your tomato jam, as it’s da bomb! and I’d love to be tasting some come January.
August 22nd, 2009at 10:30 am(#)
You know, I think I will post that Tomato Jam recipe next. Id forgotten about that–it is one of my all time favorite recipes. Period. Thanks for the reminder.
August 22nd, 2009at 2:41 pm(#)
Hi Nicole!
My daughter (Angela Wood) & I attended many of your classes in Portland to
include your weekend catering seminar. We really have enjoyed your
inspiration and your books are ‘well devoured’ by us. I was thrilled to get
your notice of your new blog, A Conscious Feast. Thanks for all your hard
work and we wish you the best in your endeavors.
Fondly,
Mary Henderson
August 22nd, 2009at 2:51 pm(#)
Nicole – this is my first year of growing tomatoes and I have been blessed! I’m excited to try this recipe now. Just checked the vine and by Mon or Tues I’ll be picking more. Thanks for great inspiration to stay out of ruts in cooking. Your two books, “Secrets From a Caterer’s Kitchen” and “Cooking For Company” are well-used companions in my kitchen. And getting to know you in your classes has made it all the more fun to “read them again for the first time” and find new nuggets.
Keep it up girl, we are tuned in!
Later – Mary
August 22nd, 2009at 3:02 pm(#)
OK, me again….sorry but after reading your blog about your endeavor to grow tomatoes, I must tell you my story. On the way to the beach (Florence, OR) in May, we stopped at a tag sale. I noticed some beautiful tomato starts near a greenhouse. The lady graciously sold me a plant for $1. Got it home, bought a bag of the recommended ‘best’ soil and planted it in a large pot. This one single plant grew to my height and has produced amazing tomatoes! I’ve only watered when dry – that’s it. It has been featured in photos on my FaceBook page and I must say I’m pretty proud of it….and me!
No skill, just good luck!
August 22nd, 2009at 3:16 pm(#)
Hi Mary, well, stay tuned. I’m going to post several more wonderful tomato recipes this week. Staying with a theme!
Nicole
August 22nd, 2009at 3:18 pm(#)
To be honest Mary, I ‘m quite jealous. And, as I said, I have hope for next year.
August 28th, 2009at 5:08 pm(#)
The tomato recipes look yummy. We just picked about 25 pounds of tomatoes from our garden. I am always looking for different ways to use them. Miss your classes in Portland, enjoyed being your kitchen assistant!
August 28th, 2009at 5:15 pm(#)
Mary, I miss Portland,too. My favorite city to teach in—ever. Say hi to Joanie! And 25 lbs of tomatoes, I’m impressed!
September 6th, 2009at 12:50 pm(#)
[...] In the heated debate about the way our food is grown and brought to market, the homegrown tomato has become the poster child for all that is right about natural, local or homegrown foods. They’re the epitome of something that is undeniably better when grown by a small farmer (or your backyard). Taste a slice of an organic Japanese Truffle next to one of the flavorless lumps industrial agriculture palms off on us and even the most diehard supermarket-maven will have to acknowledge that there may be something to this local, organic hullabaloo … [read more] [...]