A Conscious Feast by Nicole Aloni

Named after the Alaskan river where it spawns, Copper River Salmon is arguably the most famous and sought after wild salmon you can buy. And the most glamorous. Here in the Northwest, the beginning of Copper River season (about May 15) holds the frenzied cult status of the first shipment of Beaujolais Nouveau, or the unearthing of the first truffle of the season. It’s great fish, but it’s become more than that. Seattle-ites have adopted it as their very own symbol of the pristine, sustainable foods they prize.

The Copper River is one of the longest, most rugged rivers in Alaska, which means the athletic salmon that call this river home (king, sockeye and silvers) must struggle up 300 rip-snorting miles to spawn. The extra fat and oil they pack on their bodies in order to survive this grueling trip is what makes Copper River some of the world’s best eating salmon.

And this is not only a flavorful, meaty fish, it is also a model of sustainability. Alaska’s seafood management practices in general, which have been strictly regulated for nearly five decades, are considered the epitome of sustainability worldwide. In fact, all Alaska seafood is wild and sustainable. Go to www.alaskaseafood.org for more information.

Copper River fishing operations are centered around the small town of Cordova, which becomes a bustling seaport during the short salmon season. But, fishermen can’t just fish at will. Typical of all of Alaska’s Wildlife protection, the fishing is strictly monitored. The fish are counted as they swim from the sea into the mouth of the river. When a sufficient number have passed, fishermen will be allowed to fish for a day or so. Then the Dept of Fish and Game will shut things down and count again to maintain adequate quotas for the salmon’s continued sustainability. This process continues throughout the season. These salmon are counted (and protected) one by one!

Because of its rich, oily texture, Copper River Salmon is beautifully suited to grilling (with or without a cedar plank) or try combining raw slivers of it with oranges, capers and chiles for a variation on Ceviche. (Copper River Salmon is also absolutely packed with healthful Omega-3’s).

You can also consult the blog recipe archive for Riesling Poached Salmon that would be elegant for a summer dinner party in the garden.